Three_Ways_to_Control_a_Single_Phase

By Padmaraja Yedamale -- Design News, December 12, 2004

Every day engineers design products that employ single-phase induction motors. Speed control of single-phase induction motors is desirable in most motor control applications since it not only provides variable speed but also reduces energy consumption and audible noise.

Most single-phase induction motors are unidirectional, which means they are designed to rotate in one direction. Either by adding extra windings, external relays and switches, or by adding gear mechanisms, the direction of rotation can be changed. Using microcontroller-based control systems, one can add speed variation to the system. In addition to the option of speed variation, the direction of rotation can also be changed, depending upon the motor control algorithms used.

Permanent Split Capacitor (PSC) motors are the most popular type of single-phase induction motors. This article will discuss different techniques and drive topologies to control the speed of a PSC motor in one and two directions.

Microcontroller Interface

A microcontroller is the brain of the system. Often, the controllers used for motor control applications have specialized peripherals like motor-control PWMs, high-speed analog-to-digital converters (ADCs), and diagnostic pins. The PIC18F2431 and dsPIC30F2010 from Microchip both have these features built in.

Having access to the microcontroller's specialized, on-chip peripherals makes the implementation of control algorithms easier.

ADC channels are used to measure motor current, motor temperature and heat sink temperature (connected to the power switches). A third ADC channel is used to read potentiometer levels, which is then used to set the speed of the motor. Additional ADC channels can be used in the final application to read different sensors, such as the proximity switch, turbidity sensors, water level, freezer temperature, etc.

General-purpose inputs and outputs (I/Os) can be used for interfacing switches and displays in an application. For example, in a refrigerator application, these general-purpose I/Os can be used to control an LCD display, seven-segment LED display, push-button interface, etc. Communication channels like I2C or SPI are used to connect the motor control board with another board to exchange data.

Fault and diagnostics interfaces include input lines with special features like the ability to shut down the PWMs in case of catastrophic faults in the system. For example, in a dish-washer, if the drive is blocked due to accumulated waste, it could prevent the motor from rotating. This blockage can be detected in the form of over current in the motor control system. Using the diagnostics features, these types of faults can be logged and/or displayed, or transferred to the trouble-shooting PC of a service person. Often, this will prevent hard failures and reduce the downtime of the product, resulting in reduced service costs.

The hardware interface for the PIC 18F2431 or dsPIC30F2010.

PWMs are the main peripherals used to control the motor. Using the above inputs, the microcontroller's motor control algorithm determines the PWM duty cycle and pattern of output. The PWM's most valuable features include complementary channels with programmable dead time. PWMs can be edge-aligned or center-aligned. Center-aligned PWMs have the advantage of reduced electromagnetic noise (EMI) being emitted by the product.

Option #1: Unidirectional Control

VF control in one direction makes the drive topology and control algorithm relatively easy. The task is to generate a variable voltage and frequency power supply from a fixed voltage and frequency power supply (such as a wall-outlet power supply). The figure on page 85 shows the block diagram representation of this drive topology, with the three basic building sections discussed earlier. Motor windings are connected to the center of each half bridge on the output-inverter section. Many motors available off the shelf have both the main and start windings connected together with a capacitor connected in series with the start winding. With this configuration, the motor may have only two protruding wires (M1 and M2).

The MCU shown in the block diagram has a Power Control PWM (PCPWM) module, which is capable of outputting up to three pairs of PWMs with deadband in between the pairs. Deadband is essential in an induction motor control application to avoid cross conduction of the dc bus through the power switches when one turns OFF and the other turns ON. The diagnostic circuit may include motor current monitoring, dc-bus voltage monitoring, and temperature monitoring on the heat sink connected to the power switches and the motor.

Block diagram representation of the drive topology with the three basic building sections. With this configuration, the motor may have only two protruding wires (M1 and M2). The MCU shown has a PWM module that is capable of outputting up to three pairs of PWMs with deadband between the pairs.
Bidirectional control using an H-bridge.

Bidirectional Control

Most PSC motors are designed to run in one direction. However, many applications call for bidirectional motor rotation. Historically, gear mechanisms or external relays and switches were used to achieve bidirectional rotation. When mechanical gears are used, the motor shaft runs in one direction, and the gears for forward and reverse engage and disengage according to the direction required. Using relays and switches, the polarity of the starting winding is electrically reversed based on the direction required.

Unfortunately, all of these components increase the cost of the system for basic ON and OFF control in two directions.

In this section, we will discuss two methods of bidirectional speed control for PSC motors using a microcontroller-based drive. The drive topologies discussed here produce effective voltages, which drive the main winding and start winding at 90-degree phase shifts to each other. This enables the system designer to remove the capacitor, which is in series with start winding, from the circuit permanently—thereby reducing the total system cost.

Option #2: H-Bridge Inverter

This method has a voltage doubler on the input side; on the output side an H-bridge or two-phase inverter is used (see figure above). One end of the main and start windings are connected to each half bridge; the other ends are connected together at the neutral point of the ac power supply, which also serves as the center point for the voltage doubler.

The control circuit requires four PWMs with two complementary pairs and sufficient deadband between the complementary outputs. PWM0-PWM1 and PWM2-PWM3 are the PWM pairs with dead band. Using PWMs, the dc bus is synthesized to provide two sine voltages at 90 degrees out of phase with varying amplitude and varying frequency, according to the VF profile. If the voltage applied to the main winding lags the start winding by 90 degrees, then the motor runs in the forward direction. To reverse the direction of rotation, the voltage supplied to the main winding should lead the voltage supplied to the start winding.

Phase voltages when the motor is running in forward and reverse direction.

This H-bridge inverter method of controlling a PSC type motor has following disadvantages.

The main and start windings have different electrical characteristics. Thus, the current flowing through each switch is unbalanced. This can lead to the premature breakdown of switching devices in the inverter.

The common point of the windings is directly connected to the neutral power supply. This may increase the switching signals creeping into the main power supply, and may increase the noise emitted onto the line. In turn, this may limit the EMI level of the product, violating certain design goals and regulations.

The effective dc voltage handled is relatively high due to the input-voltage doubler circuit.

Lastly, the cost of the voltage doubler circuit itself is high due to two large power capacitors.

A better solution to minimize these problems would be to use a three-phase inverter bridge, as discussed in the next section.

Option #3: Using a Three-Phase Inverter Bridge

The input section is replaced with a standard diode-bridge rectifier. The output section has a three-phase inverter bridge. The main difference from the previous scheme is the method used to connect the motor windings to the inverter. One end of the main and start windings are connected to one half bridge each. The other ends are tied together and connected to the third half bridge.

Control using a three-phase inverter bridge.

With this drive topology, control becomes more efficient. However, the control algorithm becomes more complex. The winding voltages, Va, Vb, and Vc, should be controlled to achieve the phase difference between the effective voltages across the main and starting windings, in order to have a 90-degree phase shift to each other.

In order to have equal voltage-stress levels on all devices, which improves the device utilization and provides the maximum possible output voltage for a given dc bus voltage, all three inverter-phase voltages are kept at the same amplitude, as given by:

| Va | = | Vb | = | Vc |

The effective voltage across the main and starting windings as given by:

Vmain = Va-Vc

Vstart = Vb-Vc

The direction of rotation can be easily controlled by the Vc phase angle with respect to Va and Vb .

Figures on page 87 show the phase voltages Va, Vb, and Vc, the effective voltages across the main winding (Vmain) and starting winding (Vstart) for forward direction and reverse directions respectively.

Using the three-phase inverter control method on a 300W compressor gave a power saving of 30 percent compared to the first two methods.

Microcontroller Resources Required
Resource Unidirectional Bidirectional H-bridge Bidirectional with three-phase bridge Notes
Program memory 1.5 Kbytes 2.0 Kbytes 2.5 Kbytes --
Data memory ~20 bytes ~25 Bytes ~25 bytes --
PWM channels 2 channels 2 channels 3 channels Complementary with dead time
Timer 1 1 1 8- or 16-bit
Analog-to-digital converter 3 to 4 channels 3 to 4 channels 3 to 4 channels Motor current, temperature measurements, speed control potentiometer
Digital I/Os 3 to 4 3 to 4 3 to 4 For user interfaces like switches and displays
Fault inputs 1 or 2 1 or 2 1 or 2 For over current/ over voltage/ over temp, etc.
Complexity of control algorithm Low Medium High --
Cost Comparison

Unidirectional Bidirectional with H-bridge Bidirectional with three-phase bridge
Input converter section Low - Single phase diode bridge rectifier High - Due to voltage doubler circuit Low - Single phase diode bridge rectifier
Output inverter section Low - Two half bridges Medium - Two half bridges. The power switches rated higher voltage High - three-phase inverter. Using Integrated Power Modules (IPM) is better choice than discrete components
Motor Medium - Starting capacitor required Low - Starting capacitor is removed from the motor Low - Starting capacitor is removed from the motor
Development time Short Mid-range Long
Overall cost Low Medium Medium - Efficient control for the given cost

Another advantage of using the three-phase control method is that the same drive-hardware topology can be used to control a three-phase induction motor. In this scenario, the microcontroller should be reprogrammed to output sine voltages with 120-degree phase shift to each other, which drives a three-phase induction motor. This reduces the development time.

Single-phase induction motors are very popular in appliances, and industrial and consumer applications. PSCs are the most popular type of single-phase induction motors. Controlling the motor speed has many advantages, such as power efficiency, reduced audible noise and better control over the application. In this article, we discussed different methods of speed control that can be used with a PSC motor in unidirection and bidirection. Controlling a PSC motor using a three-phase inverter topology provides the best results.




Phase voltage when the motor is running in forward and reverse directions.
Web Resources
An overview of motor types, motor classification, and applications using Microchip's PICs and dsPICs:
http://rbi.ims.ca/3860-559
Datasheet programming specs and application notes for PIC 18FXX31 microcontroller:
http://rbi.ims.ca/3860-560
Motor control development tools from Microchip:
http://rbi.ims.ca/3860-561
Author Information
Contributing writer Padmaraja Yedamale is a Senior Applications Engineer at Microchip Technology Inc. You can reach him at padmaraja.yedamale@microchip.com.

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How do I choose the right transformer?

On the back of your appliance, you should be able to find a label describing the specification of it. You should see a label describing the Wattage (W) or the Amperage (A) of the appliance.

Example: If your appliance consumes 80 watts then you need a VC-100 transformer (100 watts capacity) or higher.

If you want to operate 2 appliances on one transformer. One of them consumes 300 watts and the other 130 watts then you would need a VC-500 (500 watts capacity) or higher.

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Inverter Tutorial and Faq

Inverter Tutorial and Frequently Asked Questions:

Q: What is an inverter?

A: An inverter takes DC power (battery or solar, for example) and converts it into AC "household" power for running electronic equipment and appliances.

Q: How is an inverter different than a UPS?

A: A UPS typically includes the and battery charger in one stand alone unit. However, there are UPSs that use external batteries, and PowerStream makes inverters with battery chargers, so the differences blurr as features proliferate.

UPSs also can have communication with the equipment that it is powering letting the equipment know that it is operating on standby, giving it shutdown warning, or communicating with the human in the loop. Inverters typically don't have this communication.


Q: Why are they called inverters?
A: Originally converters were large rotating electromechanical devices. Essentially they combined a synchronous ac motor with a commutator so that the commutator reversed its connections to the ac line exactly twice per cycle. The results is ac-in dc-out. If you invert the connections to a converter you put dc in and get ac out. Hence an inverter is an inverted converter. For more information about such converters see http://www.nycsubway.org/tech/power/rotary.html (thanks to Karl W.Berger, PE for this answer).


Q: What if I want a DC output to run such things as a laptop from a car cigarette lighter, or telephone equipment at -48 volts?
A: Then you want a DC/DC converter. PowerStream has some DC/DC converters just for those purposes. http://www.powerstream.com/dcdc.htm

Q: What is the difference between sine wave and modified sine wave?
A: Alternating current (AC) has a continuously varying voltage that swings from positive to negative. This has great advantages in power transmission over long distances. Power from your power company is carefully regulated to be a perfect sine wave, because that is what naturally comes out of a generator, and also because sine waves radiate the least amount of radio power during long distance transmission.
On the other hand, a sine wave is expensive to make in an inverter, and many sine wave techniques use heavy, inefficient transformers. The most inexpensive way to make AC is to switch the DC on and off--a square wave. A modified sine wave is scientifically designed to simulate a sine wave in the most important respects so that it will work for most appliances. It consists of a flat plateau of postive voltage, dropping abruptly to zero for a while, then dropping again to a flat plateau of negative voltage, back to zero for a while, then returning to the positive voltage. This pause at zero volts puts more power into the 60HZ fundamental than a simple square wave does, so it is called "modified sine wave" instead of "square wave."


Q: Can I use a modified sine wave inverter for my medical equipment?
A: For Medical equipment, oxygen generators, etc. talk to the manufacturer of the equipment. PowerStream inverters are never tested or rated with medical equipment, and we don't guarantee that they will work to save your life. For such applications please find inverters that are rated and tested for such applications.

Q: What about square wave inverters?
A: These old-fashioned inverters are the cheapest to make, but the hardest to use. They just flip the voltage from plus to minus creating a square waveform. They are not very efficient because the square wave has a lot of power in higher harmonics that cannot be used by many appliances. The modified sine wave is designed to minimize the power in the harmonics while still being cheap to make.

Q: How do I know if I need a sine wave, or if I can live with a modified sine wave?
A: The following gadgets work well with a modified sine wave: computers, motor-driven appliances, toasters, coffee makers, most stereos, ink jet printers, refrigerators, TVs, VCRs, many microwave ovens, etc.

Appliances that are known to have problems with the modified sine wave are some digital clocks, some battery chargers, light dimmers, some operated gadgets that recharge in an AC recepticle, some chargers for hand tools (Makita is known to have this problem). In the case of hand tools, the problem chargers usually have a warning label stating that dangerous voltages are present at the battery terminals when charging. We would like to add to this FAQ any appliances that you have had trouble with, or had success with, using modified sine wave inverters.

Q: Why do I hear buzzing on my stereo when using a modified sine wave inverter?
A: Some inexpensive stereos use power supplies that cannot eliminate common-mode noise. These would require a sine wave inverter to operate noise-free.

Q: Why don't I measure rated voltages when using a multimeter on my modified sine wave inverter?
A. The rated voltage is an RMS (root mean square--they square the value to make sure it is always positive, then average it, then take the square root of the average to make up for having squared it in the first place) measurement. Most multimeters are designed to give correct RMS readings when applied to sine waves, but not when they are applied to other waveforms. They will read from 2% to 20% low in voltage. Look for a voltmeter that braggs about "True RMS" readings.

Q: How should I select the right size inverter?
A: First add up the power ratings of all the appliances, then buy the next larger inverter! At least that is the simple answer. Note, however, that some appliances, such as table saws, refrigerators, and microwaves have a surge requirement. PowerStream inverters are designed to supply such surges, but since every appliance has its own requirements sometimes you will need to get a bigger inverter than you would otherwise think. Note that the inverter isn't the only consideration when you are pondering the mysteries of startup surges. The battery must also be able to supply the surge power, and the cables must be able to supply the increased current without dropping the voltage too much.

Q: How is a microwave rated for wattage?
A: When you buy a microwave oven you want to know how intense the microwave field is, not how much the oven draws from the wall. So a microwave oven that boasts 600 watts on the box, will have 1200 watts on the boilerplate in the back. Don't be fooled!

Q: Are stereo amplifiers rated the same way?
A: Stereo manufacturers are bigger liars than politicians. Some times they use peak output power (milliseconds), sometimes they use power drawn from the wall, but often they just look at the competition's carton front and add 10%. However the truth is available: look at the boilerplate sticker, which has been evaluated by UL.

Q: Why do I need such humongous cables to the battery when a small cord takes the AC output fine?
A: Power is volts times amps (Watts = V x A). So if you have a lot of voltage you don't need many amps. Roughly you need 12 times as much current from the 12 volt battery as you need from the 110 volt AC outlet. Current is what causes cables to heat up, not voltage. That is why they use thousands of volts in power transmission grids. The thing to do when you have lots of current is to lower the resistance of the cable. The larger the wire the lower the resistance. Think of the cable as a water pipe. A big pipe (wire) can carry more water (current or amperage) with less pressure (voltage), and will present less pressure (voltage) drop from one end of the pipe to the other.
Another consideration is how far the cable has to run from the battery to the inverter. Long cable runs are expensive, either in copper or efficiency, or both.

Q: Why would you use a 24 volt inverter instead of a 12 volt inverter?
A. At a given power rating a 24 volt inverter will need half the current as a 12 volt inverter. This makes the entire system more efficient, and since high current transistors are expensive, the inverter will be cheaper.

Q: Should I use aluminum wire, or must I use copper?
A: Aluminum is cheaper and lighter, but it also has higher resistance for a given guage, and is more difficult to connect to. If you are an expert in such things, or know one, and need the advantages that aluminum gives, go ahead. If not, why not use the best conductor, copper? (Silver is slightly better, but it is cheaper to use a larger diameter copper). To compare the two look at our web page http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm .

Make sure to use good insulation, 90°C rated or better. Also, running two sets of parallel wires instead of one can cut down on the wire heating due to more surface area.

Make sure to follow all applicable electrical codes. Inverters must be grounded properly, and treated with respect, since they put out potentially lethal voltage. A lot of smart people have worked for 100 years to develop rules which will keep you out of trouble if followed. These rules are called the national electrical code, and your friend the electrician has it memorized (or knows where to look it up).

Q: Should I use a laser printer with an inverter?
A: Only if you must. Laser printers use up a surprising amount of power (due to the heated rollers), and will discharge your battery faster than you expect, even on standby. If you do, make sure the inverter is rated for the power of the printer plus computer plus monitor. It doesn't do any good to have your computer brown out as soon as the the printer starts to print. Ink jet printers, on the other hand, use a surprsingly low amount of power.

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Characteristics of a Grid-Tie Inverter

Inverter manufacturers publish datasheets for the inverters in their product line. While the terminology and content will vary by manufacturer, datasheets generally include the information listed below.

  • Rated Output Power: This value will be provided in watts or kilowatts. For some inverters, they may provide an output rating for different output voltages. For instance, if the inverter can be configured for either 240VAC or 208VAC output, the rated power output may be different for each of those configurations.
  • Output voltage(s): This value indicates to which utility voltages the inverter can connect. For smaller inverters that are designed for residential use, the output voltage is usually 240VAC. Inverters that target commercial applications are often compatible with 208, 240, 277, and/or 480VAC.
  • Peak efficiency: The peak efficiency represents the highest efficiency that the inverter can achieve. Most grid-tie inverters on the market as of this date (July 2009) have peak efficiencies of over 94%, some as high as 96%. The energy lost during inversion is for the most part converted into heat. It's important to note that this means that in order for an inverter to put out the rated amount of power it will need to have a power input that exceeds the output. For example, a 5000W inverter operating at full power at 95% efficiency will consume 5,263W (rated power divided by efficiency). Inverters that are capable of producing power at different AC voltages may have different efficiencies associated with each voltage.
  • CEC weighted efficiency: This efficiency is published by the California Energy Commission on its GoSolar website. In contrast to peak efficiency, this value is an average efficiency and is a better representation of the inverter's operating profile. Inverters that are capable of producing power at different AC voltages may have different efficiencies associated with each voltage.[3]
  • Maximum input current: This is the maximum amount of DC current that the inverter will use. If a DC power source, such as a solar array, produces an amount of current that exceeds the maximum input current, that current will not be used by the inverter.
  • Maximum output current: The maximum output current is the maximum continuous AC current that the inverter will supply. This value is typically used to determine the minimum current rating of the overcurrent protection devices (e.g., breakers and fuses) and disconnects required for the output circuit. Inverters that are capable of producing power at different AC voltages will have different maximum outputs for each voltage.
  • Peak Power Tracking Voltage: This is also a very important value. This represents the DC voltage range in which the inverters' maximum point power tracker will operate. The system designer must configure the strings optimally so that during the majority of the year, the voltage of the strings will be within this range. This can be a difficult task since voltage will fluctuate with changes in temperature.
  • Start Voltage: This value is not listed on all inverter datasheets. The value indicates the minimum DC voltage that is required in order for the inverter to turn on and begin operation. This is especially important for solar applications, because the system designer must be sure that there is a sufficient number of solar modules wired in series in each string to produce this voltage. If this value is not provided by the manufacturer, system designers typically use the lower band of the Peak Power Tracking Voltage range as the inverter's minimum voltage.
  • NEMA Rating: The NEMA rating indicates the level of protection the device has against water intrusion. Most inverters are NEMA 3R which means it is outdoor rated for most situations.

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Tips Before purchasing a power inverter

Tips Before purchasing a power inverter
Before you buy a power inverter, then there are several questions that should you ask the seller a power inverter
1. Component
Ask the seller if the inverter power components using IC alone or transformer + IC?
Inverter which uses + IC Transformer Component has good heat resistance so as not to be easily damaged and normally aging equipment can be for many years and even 10-15tahun and inverter using IC components although only relatively cheap but age is usually only a few months means a maximum of three months only, the from that match with your needs. If you only need the inverter only one to three months only, the inverter with IC components could be your choice and if you need an inverter for a long time then it could use a transformer component that you do not buy many times the inverter
2. Efficiency / Purity / Power out
Like the power inverter generator has efficiency / purity / power out.
Example of a power inverter which has a 90% efficiency with 1000watt the type that can be generated power is 900watt, and if the inverter which has only 40% efficiency can only be used 400watt
3. Frequency
Electrical frequency that is suitable for use in Indonesia is having a frequency at 50 Hz because there is a power inverter which has a frequency of 100 Hz so can not be used for electrical equipment in Indonesia
4. Wave
There are three types of wave power inverter
1. Square wave / box, in character and does not damage the electrical equipment suitable for electrical equipment in Indonesia
2. Waves of modified sine wave, nature does not damage the electrical equipment and is widely used because it is relatively cheaper than pure sine wave
3. Pure sine wave or puresinewave, nature does not destroy, and the price reached above 5juta s / d 15 million

Similarly tips before buying a power inverter so you can choose the appropriate power inverter

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using a solar power inverter

Posting for Knownledge using solar power inverter. A solar power inverter forms an important part of any home solar energy system which supplies enough electricity to get you off the grid.

The inverter converts direct current, which is produced by a solar panel, into alternating current.

There is also a charge controller, which can use excess power to charge your system's battery, and provide energy without any waste.

In some cases, solar power might be your best solution, if you want to set your home up to run independent from the power grids. It is also relatively simple to install, and doesn't require a large quantity of parts and components, in order to produce electricity.

Each system is different, but generally speaking, all you need is:

- A set of solar panels

- A solar regulator or a charge controller

- A battery to store electricity in

- Your wiring

Solar panels usually produce 12 to 24 volts DC. Some appliances can run on this power, but most home appliances require 110 or 220 volts AC.

This is where a solar power inverter is needed. It converts the direct current into alternating current.

What is direct current? Direct current, or DC, flows continuously in one direction, while alternating current changes in its direction of flow.

Alternating current (AC) is used because it is a type of electricity which can be carried over longer distances, with minimal energy loss . Oddly enough, however, most household appliances have built in devices which convert the AC into DC, in order to operate.

Various types of solar inverters can be found on the market these days. You might come across some which are pretty cheap. But keep in mind that these might be inferior in quality. Some inverters get warmer when in use – and that heat adds up to a loss of energy.

Different solar inverters use different “loads,” as well. The “load” is the amount of current or energy that the inverter can handle. For home use, you might want to get a solar inverter that can handle a couple of hundred watts, at any given time. These aren't always cheap, but they will be worthwhile in the long run.

Possibly the best type of solar inverter to get is the true sine wave. This type of inverter produces power identical to what you would receive from the main supply grid. When viewed on an oscilloscope, the waves are smooth.

If the true sine wave is above your budget, you might settle for a modified sine wave. This gives a lesser quality power than the true sine wave does, but is less expensive.

Getting Completely Off the Grid

If you are looking to get your home running off the grid completely, then get a “stand-alone power system inverter.” With this type of device, you plug the deep cycle batteries in - and it can be installed by virtually anyone.

You can also get a “mains grid inverter,” which draws power from your solar panels, and at the same time feeds excess energy back to the main grid. In some states, you can earn money back from the power companies when you produce excess power and feed it back to the grid.

Installing a Solar Power System in Your Home

When installing a partial or complete solar energy system into your home, there are generally two ways to go about it.

1. Hire a professional installation company to install your system

2. Do it yourself.

The least expensive choice is the latter – do it yourself.

There are many high-quality and popular do-it-yourself guides available, which will teach you how to install your own solar power or wind power system at home. These guides often include manuals, instructional videos, diagrams, and step-by-step instructions.

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Knowledge of Mirotek inverters

Please reading this article for your knowledge. Microtek inverters are extremely popular in India because of their great quality, high performance and excellent functionality. There is growing market for batteries and inverters in India because of the increased use of electrical and electronic equipments and not-so-regular power supply. There is need of inverters and batteries at each and every place, including homes, offices, factories, industries, vehicles and more. Foreseeing this great demand for quality inverters and batteries, Microtek has designed several types of products to suit the requirements of different classes of people.

Microtek manufactures different type of inverters such as Online UPS, Line Interactive UPS, digital and Sine wave inverters. Microtek is known for bringing the latest technology in its comprehensive product line up. Microtek is working towards its vision to bring the best technology by regular up gradation and investment.

Microtek manufacturing facilities are ISO 9001-2000 certified. There are several manufacturing units and a great dealer network of Microtek. Finding a Microtek inverter to suit your requirement is not a difficult task.

One of the popular inverter series by Microtek are UPS EB series, UPS - E² series.

UPS EB inverters are designed with latest technology to provide better performance and great reliability. They have features like Micro-Controller based intelligent control design. These inverters are equipped with display indicators to show the status. These inverters are designed with state-of-the art technology. They are equipped with CCTV Technology with Auto trickle Mode. Other features include smart Overload Sense and Short Circuit Protection, Easily Serviceable, Battery state Monitoring and Multi stage Battery charger.

At the same time UPS E² models are fitted with highly efficient transformers which help in quick charging of the battery, save energy and increase the backup. There is minimum energy loss when there is conversion from DC to AC. In addition, there is mains input voltage range selection.

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Solar powered car

Please Read this article for your knowledge. Most people will tell you that you can't run your car on solar electricity, but that's exactly what I do. In 2001, during California's energy crisis, I installed a grid-tied solar-electric system with design assistance from Bob-O Schultze of Electron Connection. My original motivation was the desire to avoid rolling blackouts. Today, not only am I powering my home with solar electricity, I'm running my car on sunshine too! Our system has 3,600 watts of solar-electric (photovoltaic; PV) modules mounted on three dual-axis tracking pole mounts.

At our location, the tracking arrays generate about 30 percent more energy than fixed arrays on an annual basis. Since the system is tied to the utility grid, there is always somewhere for our electricity to go, and regulation losses are avoided. To ensure that we have electricity during power outages, a deep-cycle battery bank was included in the system. The inverter maintains the batteries at 100 percent state of charge, so they're always ready for the next utility outage. I have been extremely happy with my PV system, and delighted with the decision to include battery backup. While the grid goes down periodically, our home has never experienced any blackouts. When the grid fails, our inverter seamlessly switches our appliances over to the battery bank, and life continues normally. The system functions as a wholehouse uninterruptible power supply for all 120 VAC loads. Efficiency & Rates Before the installation, I reduced my monthly electricity use from about 1,000 KWH to around 600 by replacing a refrigerator and freezer with new energy efficient Kenmore appliances from Sears, and converting all the house lights to compact fluorescents.

I signed up for the then-new, E-7 time-of-use (TOU) net metering rate schedule from Pacific Gas and Electric (PG&E), which paid US$0.31 per KWH, the peak rate, for all electricity metered back to the grid for the six summer months, from noon to 6 PM, Monday through Friday. The off-peak rate was US$0.08 per KWH, and covered all the other times. This large differential in rates provided a strong incentive to shift electrical loads out of the peak period and into the off-peak period. With the help of several timers, my wife and I manage to use very little electricity during the peak period. As a result of the TOU rate schedule and our load shifting, at the end of the first twelve months we had a positive balance with PG&E of US$88. This is called the true-up period, and unfortunately our utility does not have to pay us this amount. On the other hand, the TOU schedule did allow us to use 1,840 KWH more from the grid than we generated that first year. By the middle of the second year, it became obvious that our surplus for the second twelve months was going to be almost two-and-a-half times the US$88 of the first year because of improvements in our load shifting and further conservation efforts. We started to talk about how to use up this surplus because there was very little appeal in handing more than US$200 to PG&E.

Electric Vehicle The obvious solution was to buy one of the Toyota RAV4 EVs that were available at that time (the end of 2002). I was dragging my feet, but my wife prodded me into action, and we traded in our Acura for this electric vehicle. If I had not followed my wife's prodding, we would not have this car. Soon after placing our order, Toyota announced that they were discontinuing production of this vehicle and taking no further orders. We bought the car late in the year, so after the second twelve months we still had a US$112 surplus with PG&E and a 1,550 KWH positive energy balance. I was somewhat expecting this car to more than use up our surplus. But after the first full year's use of the RAV4 EV, we still had a zero bill with PG&E, but had used 3,568 KWH more from the grid than we generated. We put about 12,000 miles (19,000 km) on the EV for the year, and it uses about 300 watt-hours per mile. All of these watt-hours were charged during off-peak times at US$0.08 per KWH. Without the solar-electric modules, if you had to pay US$0.08 per KWH to charge this car, it would cost less than US$0.03 per mile for the electricity, compared to the US$0.10 per mile (or more) you pay for a gasoline-fueled car. The car uses about 3,600 KWH per year, just about what our net usage from the grid is per year.

The fact that we owe nothing for electricity used by our house and car is entirely due to the E-7 TOU net metering, and really demonstrates the effectiveness of the combination of a solar-electric system with this rate schedule. Unfortunately, the gain available with this rate schedule is entirely dependent on the size of the summertime peak rate, and PG&E lowered it from US$0.31per KWH to US$0.29 per KWH. This may have the effect of pushing my current year's bill into positive territory, which has given us incentives for further conservation. Petroleum Free After rebates and tax credits, the solar-electric system cost about US$26,000 and the car about US$29,000. I would have bought both without the rebates and tax credits, and never intend to go back to a gasoline car. The PR campaign by the automakers and the petroleum industry to turn the people of this country against EVs is a national disgrace and a big step backward for the sustainability of the planet.

It is possible to live petroleum free for both home and transportation needs!

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Installation of Inverter Battery Charger Plus All Equipped

Installation of Inverter Battery Charger Plus All Equipped

1. Make sure the switch is in OFF position

2. Prepare the battery cable is red or positive that we have provided in inverter package

3. Connect the battery cables or POSITIVE RED color, the other end to the Positive Pole of the inverter and the other end to the positive pole of the battery, the inverter has no positive signs from the terminal and the existing akipun positive sign

4. Once installed the red battery cable then tighten the bolt

5. Prepare the battery cable or NEGATIVE BLACK color that has been provided by us in inverter package

6. . Connect the battery cables or colored BLACK NEGATIVE, NEGATIVE Edge Pole only to the inverter and the other end to the NEGATIVE battery poles, the inverter has no negative signs from the terminal and the existing akipun negative sign

7. Connect the black wire inverter input into the existing socket diinverter
8. Plug the black input cable from the inverter to the electricity socket
9. Turn on the switch to the ON position
10. Plug the electrical appliance like a fan, PC, etc who want to back up into the white inverter OUTPUT

* The order of installation of an inverter please note

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Measure the output inverter

The output of AC inverter is a modified SINEWAVE. If you want to measure the volt at the output of this inverter unit then you must use a special Multimeter is equipped with facilities METER TRUE RMS volt Because if you only use the regular AVO and using a multimeter or other will result will be readable 20-30Volt lower than the measured results

And when a friend of a friend measure the volts on the output of the inverter using a multimeter with facilities METER TRUE RMS volt guaranteed accurate then the result is 220 Volts

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Added value Inverter Intelligent

There are many brand of inverter but you can choose inverter intelligent for your needs.
These online stores not only one year service warranty but the warranty service lifetime
Inverter has provided added value:

1. Inverters provided did not use the usual but using a MOSFET transistor that age resistant tool for many years, in contrast to an inverter that uses ordinary transistor-old only just 1 month
2. Inverter which has provided high efficiency depends typenya ie 90% pure so that when you use 1000 watt inverter type then you can use about 900 watts of electricity is different from other inverters which are sometimes only have a purity of 40% just so that if you buy a 1000 watt type you can only use only 400 watts
3. Inverter which can be provided so that if there is any damage diservice then we are ready menservice damage and certainly different from ordinary inverter when broken in a few months already in use or discarded can not futile
4. High-quality service lifetime warranty
5. Components of Taiwan from a country that has been known for power tools quality
6. Manufactured specifically for asia which has 50 Hz voltage
7. Inverters provided can use several batteries at once or installed some long endurance battery backup so that in accordance with your wishes
8. Using a transformer component that is not corrupt and absolute standard factory 15 years in normal use

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How to choose your inverter

Before phurchasing a power inverter then there are things that need attention,The inverter is one of the most important and most complex components in an independent energy system. To choose an inverter, you don't have to understand its inner workings, but you should know some basic functions, capabilities, and limitations. This article gives you some of the information you'll need to choose the right inverter and use it wisely.

WHY YOU NEED AN INVERTER

Independent electric energy systems are untethered from the electrical utility grid. They vary in size from tiny yard lights to remote homes, villages, parks, and medical and military facilities. They also include mobile, portable, and emergency backup systems. Their common bond is the storage battery, which absorbs and releases energy in the form of direct current (DC) electricity

In contrast, the utility grid supplies you with alternating current (AC) electricity. AC is the standard form of electricity for anything that "plugs in" to utility power. DC flows in a single direction. AC alternates its direction many times per second. AC is used for grid service because it is more practical for long distance transmission.

An inverter converts DC to AC, and also changes the voltage. In other words, it is a power adapter. It allows a battery-based system to run conventional appliances through conventional home wiring. There are ways to use DC directly, but for a modern lifestyle, you will need an inverter for the vast majority, if not all of your loads (loads are devices that use energy).

Incidentally, there is another type of inverter called grid-interactive. It is used to feed solar (or other renewable) energy into a grid-connected home and to feed excess energy back into the utility grid. If such a system does not use batteries for backup storage, it is not independent from the grid, and is not within the scope of this article.

NOT A SIMPLE DEVICE

Outwardly, an inverter looks like a box with one or two switches on it, but inside there is a small universe of dynamic activity. A modern home inverter must cope with a wide range of loads, from a single night light to the big surge required to start a well pump or a power tool. The battery voltage of a solar or wind system can vary as much as 35 percent (with varying state of charge and activity).

Through all of this, the inverter must regulate the quality of its output within narrow constraints, with a minimum of power loss. This is no simple task. Additionally, some inverters provide battery backup charging, and can even feed excess power into the grid.

DEFINE YOUR NEEDS

To choose an inverter, you should first define your needs. Then you need to learn about the inverters that are available. Inverter manufacturers print everything you need to know on their specification sheets (commonly called "spec sheets"). Here is a list of the factors that you should consider.

APPLICATION ENVIRONMENT

Where is the inverter to be used? Inverters are available for use in buildings (including homes), for recreational vehicles, boats, and portable applications. Will it be connected to the utility grid in some way? Electrical conventions and safety standards differ for various applications, so don't improvise.

ELECTRICAL STANDARDS

The DC input voltage must conform to that of the electrical system and battery bank. 12 volts is no longer the dominant standard for home energy systems, except for very small, simple systems. 24 and 48 volts are the common standards now. A higher voltage system carries less current, which makes system wiring cheaper and easier.

The inverter's AC output must conform to the conventional power in the region in order to run locally available appliances. The standard for AC utility service in North America is 115 and 230 volts at a frequency of 60 Hertz (cycles per second). In Europe, South America, and most other places, it's 220 volts at 50 Hertz.

Safety Certification An inverter should be certified by an independent testing laboratory such as UL, ETL, CSA, etc., and be stamped accordingly. This is your assurance that it will be safe, will meet the manufacturer's specifications, and will be approved in an electrical inspection. There are different design and rating standards for various application environments (buildings, vehicles, boats, etc.). These also vary from one country to another.

POWER CAPACITY

How much load can an inverter handle? Its power output is rated in watts (watts = amps x volts). There are three levels of power rating-a continuous rating, a limited-time rating, and a surge rating. Continuous means the amount of power the inverter can handle for an indefinite period of hours. When an inverter is rated at a certain number of watts, that number generally refers to its continuous rating.

The limited-time rating is a higher number of watts that it can handle for a defined period of time, typically 10 or 20 minutes. The inverter specifications should define these ratings in relation to ambient temperature (the temperature of the surrounding atmosphere). When the inverter gets too hot, it will shut off. This will happen more quickly in a hot atmosphere. The third level of power rating, surge capacity, is critical to its ability to start motors, and is discussed below.

Some inverters are designed to be interconnected or expanded in a modular fashion, in order to increase their capacity. The most common scheme is to "stack" two inverters. A cable connects the two inverters to synchronize them so they perform as one unit.

POWER QUALITY -- SINE WAVE vs. "MODIFIED SINE WAVE"

Some inverters produce "cleaner" power than others. Simply stated, "sine wave" is clean; anything else is dirty. A sine wave has a naturally smooth geometry, like the track of a swinging pendulum. It is the ideal form of AC power. The utility grid produces sine wave power in its generators and (normally) delivers it to the customer relatively free of distortion. A sine wave inverter can deliver cleaner, more stable power than most grid connections.

How clean is a "sine wave"? The manufacturer may use the terms "pure" or "true" to imply a low degree of distortion. The facts are included in the inverter's specifications. Total harmonic distortion (THD) lower than 6 percent should satisfy normal home requirements. Look for less than 3 percent if you have unusually critical electronics, as in a recording studio for example.

Other specs are important too. RMS voltage regulation keeps your lights steady. It should be plus or minus 5 percent or less. Peak voltage (Vp) regulation needs to be plus or minus 10 percent or less.

A "modified sine wave" inverter is less expensive, but it produces a distorted square waveform that resembles the track of a pendulum being slammed back and forth by hammers. In truth, it isn't a sine wave at all. The misleading term "modified sine wave" was invented by advertising people. Engineers prefer to call it "modified square wave."

The "modified sine wave" has detrimental effects on many electrical loads. It reduces the energy efficiency of motors and transformers by 10 to 20 percent. The wasted energy causes abnormal heat which reduces the reliability and longevity of motors and transformers and other devices, including some appliances and computers. The choppy waveform confuses some digital timing devices.

About 5 percent of household appliances simply won't work on modified sine wave power at all. A buzz will be heard from the speakers of nearly every audio device. An annoying buzz will also be emitted by some fluorescent lights, ceiling fans, and transformers. Some microwave ovens buzz or produce less heat. TVs and computers often show rolling lines on the screen. Surge protectors may overheat and should not be used.

Modified sine wave inverters were tolerated in the 1980s, but since then, true sine wave inverters have become more efficient and more affordable. Some people compromise by using a modified wave inverter to run their larger power tools or other occasional heavy loads, and a small sine wave inverter to run their smaller, more frequent, and more sensitive loads. Modified wave inverters in renewable energy systems have started fading into history.

EFFICIENCY

It is not possible to convert power without losing some of it (it's like friction). Power is lost in the form of heat. Efficiency is the ratio of power out to power in, expressed as a percentage. If the efficiency is 90 percent, 10 percent of the power is lost in the inverter. The efficiency of an inverter varies with the load. Typically, it will be highest at about two thirds of the inverter's capacity. This is called its "peak efficiency." The inverter requires some power just to run itself, so the efficiency of a large inverter will be low when running very small loads.

In a typical home, there are many hours of the day when the electrical load is very low. Under these conditions, an inverter's efficiency may be around 50 percent or less. The full story is told by a graph of efficiency vs. load, as published by the inverter manufacturer. This is called the "efficiency curve." Read these curves carefully. Some manufacturers cheat by starting the curve at 100 watts or so, not at zero!

Because the efficiency varies with load, don't assume that an inverter with 93 percent peak efficiency is better than one with 85 percent peak efficiency. If the 85 percent efficient unit is more efficient at low power levels, it may waste less energy through the course of a typical day.

INTERNAL PROTECTION

An inverter's sensitive components must be well protected against surges from nearby lightning and static, and from surges that bounce back from motors under overload conditions. It must also be protected from overloads. Overloads can be caused by a faulty appliance, a wiring fault, or simply too much load running at one time.

An inverter must include several sensing circuits to shut itself off if it cannot properly serve the load. It also needs to shut off if the DC supply voltage is too low, due to a low battery state-of-charge or other weakness in the supply circuit. This protects the batteries from over-discharge damage, as well as protecting the inverter and the loads. These protective measures are all standard on inverters that are certified for use in buildings.

INDUCTIVE LOADS and SURGE CAPACITY

Some loads absorb the AC wave's energy with a time delay (like towing a car with a rubber strap). These are called inductive loads. Motors are the most severely inductive loads. They are found in well pumps, washing machines, refrigerators, power tools, etc. TVs and microwave ovens are also inductive loads. Like motors, they draw a surge of power when they start.

If an inverter cannot efficiently feed an inductive load, it may simply shut down instead of starting the device. If the inverter's surge capacity is marginal, its output voltage will dip during the surge. This can cause a dimming of the lights in the house, and will sometimes crash a computer.

Any weakness in the battery and cabling to the inverter will further limit its ability to start a motor. A battery bank that is undersized, in poor condition, or has corroded connections, can be a weak link in the power chain. The inverter cables and the battery interconnect cables must be big, and I mean REALLY big, perhaps the size of a large thumb! The spike of DC current through these cables is many hundreds of amps at the instant of motor starting. Follow the inverter's instruction manual when sizing the cables, or you'll cheat yourself. Coat battery connections with a protective coating to reduce corrosion.

IDLE POWER

Idle power is the consumption of the inverter when it is on, but no loads are running. It is "wasted" power, so if you expect the inverter to be on for many hours during which there is very little load (as in most residential situations), you want this to be as low as possible. Typical idle power ranges from 15 watts to 50 watts for a home-size inverter. An inverter's spec sheet may describe the inverter's "idle current" in amps. To get watts, just multiply the amps times the DC voltage of the system.

LOW SWITCHING FREQUENCY vs. HIGH SWITCHING FREQUENCY

There are two ways to build an inverter. Without diving into theory, I'll simply say that there are differences in weight, cost, surge capacity, idle power, and noise.

A low switching frequency inverter is big and heavy (generally about 20 pounds (10 kg) per kilowatt), and more expensive. It has the high surge capacity (four to eight times the continuous capacity) needed to start large motors. Beware of the acoustical buzz that low switching frequency inverters make. If you install one near a living space, you may be unhappy with the noise.

A high switching frequency inverter is much smaller and lighter (generally about 5 pounds (2.5 kg) per kilowatt), and also less expensive. It has less surge capacity, typically about two times the continuous capacity. It produces little or no audible noise. The idle power is generally higher. If the inverter is oversized for motor starting, its idle power will be higher yet, and may be prohibitive. Most homes that have a well pump or other motors greater than 1 HP will find a low switching frequency inverter to be more economical.

Both types of inverter have their virtues. Some people "divide and conquer" by splitting their loads and using two inverters. This adds a measure of redundancy. If one ever fails, the other one can serve as backup.

AUTOMATIC ON/OFF

Inverter idling can be a substantial load on a small power system. Most inverters made for home power systems have automatic load-sensing. The inverter puts out a brief pulse of power about every second (more or less). When you switch on an AC load, it senses the current draw and turns itself on. Manufacturers have various names for this feature, including "load demand," "sleep mode," "power saver," "autostart," and "standby."

Automatic on/off can make life awkward because a tiny load may not trigger the inverter to turn on or stay on. For example, a washing machine may pause between cycles, with only the timer running. The timer draws less than 10 watts. The inverter's turn-on "threshold" may be 10 or 15 watts. The inverter shuts off and doesn't come back on until it sees an additional load from some other appliance. You may have to leave a light on while running the washer.

Some people can't adapt to such situations. Therefore, inverters with automatic on/off also have an always-on setting. With it, you can run your low-power night lights, your clocks, fax, answering machine and other tiny loads, without losing continuity. In that case, a good system designer will add the inverter's idle power into the load calculation (24 hours a day). The cost of the power system will be higher, but it will meet the expectations of modern living.

PHANTOM LOADS and IDLING LOADS

High tech consumers (most of us Americans) are stuck with gadgets that draw power whenever they are plugged in. Some of them use power to do nothing at all. An example is a TV with a remote control. Its electric eye system is on day and night, watching for your signal to turn the screen on. Every appliance with an external wall-plug transformer uses power even when the appliance is turned off. These little demons are called "phantom loads" because their power draw is unexpected, unseen, and easily forgotten.

A similar concern is "idling loads." These are devices that must be on all the time in order to function when needed. These include smoke detectors, alarm systems, motion detector lights, fax machines, and answering machines. Central heating systems have a transformer in their thermostat circuit that stays on all the time. Cordless (rechargeable) appliances draw power even after their batteries reach a full charge. If in doubt, feel the device. If it's warm, that indicates wasted energy. How many phantom or idling loads do you have?

There are several ways to cope with phantom and idling loads:
* You may be able to avoid them (in a small cabin or simple-living situation).
* You can minimize their use and disconnect them when not needed, using external switches (such as switched plug-in strips or receptacles).
* You can work around them by modifying certain equipment to shut off completely (central heating thermostat circuits, for example).
* You can use some DC appliances.
* You can pay the additional cost for a large enough power system to handle the extra loads plus the inverter's idle current.
Be careful and honest if you contemplate avoiding all phantom and idling loads. You cannot always anticipate future needs or human behavior.

POWERING A WATER SUPPLY PUMP

At a remote site, a water well or pressure pump often places the greatest demand on the inverter. It warrants special consideration. Most pumps draw a very high surge of current during startup. The inverter must have sufficient surge capacity to handle it while running any other loads that may be on. It is important to size an inverter sufficiently, especially to handle the starting surge. Oversize it still further if you want it to start the pump without causing lights to dim or blink. Ask your supplier for help doing this because inverter manufacturers have not been supplying sufficient data for sizing in relation to pumps.

In North America, most pumps (especially submersibles) run on 230 volts, while smaller appliances and lights use 115 volts. To obtain 230 volts from a 115 volt inverter, either use two inverters "stacked" (if they are designed for that) or use a transformer to step up the voltage.

If you do not already have a pump installed, you can get a 115 volt pump if you don't need more than 1/2 HP. A water pump contractor will often supply a higher power pump than is needed for a resource-conserving household. You can request a smaller pump, or it may be feasible (and economical) to replace an existing pump with a smaller one. You can also consider one of a growing number of high-effiency DC pumps that are available, to eliminate the load from your inverter.

BATTERY CHARGING FEATURES

Backup battery charging is essential to most renewable energy systems because there are likely to be occasions when the natural energy supply is insufficient. Some inverters have a built-in battery charger that will recharge the battery bank whenever power is applied from an AC generator or from the utility grid (if the batteries are not already charged). This also means that an inverter can be a complete emergency backup system for on-grid power needs (just add batteries).

A backup battery charger doesn't have to be built into the inverter. Separate chargers are, in some cases, superior to those built into inverters. This is especially true in the case of low switching frequency inverters, which tend to require an oversized generator to produce the full rated charge current.

The specifications that relate to battery charging systems include maximum charging rate (amps) and AC input power requirements. The best chargers have two or three-stage charge control, accommodation of different battery types (flooded or sealed), temperature compensation, and other refinements.

Be careful when sizing a generator to meet the requirements of an inverter/charger. Some inverters require that the generator be oversized (because of low power factor, which is beyond the scope of this article). Be sure to get experienced advice on this, or you may be disappointed by the results.

QUALITY PAYS

A good inverter is an industrial quality device that is proven reliable, certified for safety, and can last for decades. A cheap inverter may soon end up in the junk pile, and can even be a fire hazard. Consider your inverter to be a foundation component. Buy a good one that allows for future expansion of your needs.

YOUR FINAL CHOICE

Choosing an inverter is not a difficult task. Define where it is to be used. Define what type of loads (appliances) you will be powering. Determine the maximum power the inverter will need to handle. Is the quality of the power critical? Does size and weight matter? The inverter selection table will help you to determine what type of inverter is best for you.

Your next step is to learn what inverters are available on the market. Study advertisements and catalogs, or ask your favorite dealer. It is best to listen to professional advice, and to purchase your equipment from a trained and experienced dealer/installer. We hope this article helps you make the right choice.

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Inverter Specification 600 watt

This is inverter specification 600 watt with automatic charger battery

Inverter Intelligent 600 watt

SP 600Watt 12Volt + Charger
Voltage in : 12VDC
Voltage out : 220VAC
Continuous power : 600watt
Peak power : 1200 watt
Output frequency : 50Hz
Output waveform : Modified sine wave
Charger current : 10Ah
No load current draw : 0,6A
Efficiency :90%
Fuse : 30A x 2

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Inverter Specification 1000 watt

This is specification inverter 1000 watt from taiwan, lifetime warranty

KV 1000 Watt 12Volt + Charger
Voltage in : 12 VDC
Voltage out :220VAC
Continuous power :1000watt
Peak power : 2000watt
Output frequency :50Hz
Output waveform :Modified sine wave
Charger current : 10Ah
No load current draw :0,8A
Efficiency : 90%
Fuse : 30A X 3
Dimension : 265 X 160 X 60mm

Inverter 1000 watt
Inverter specification 1000 watt

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